Should I hire an interior designer? /  by Josh Brincko

First off, there is a difference between an interior designer and interior decorator, and some will be offended if you call them the wrong thing.

Designers deal with the space planning of interior elements like moving around walls and doors, and they coordinate with structural engineers for any items that affect the building structure. They also deal with life safety systems such as fire sprinklers, alarms, fire ratings, etc. Basically, they just don’t deal with the exterior parts of a building. They are sort of like an architect that doesn’t design the full building, the exterior walls, waterproofing elements, or the landscaping. They also tend to do the same things that interior decorators do as well. In some states, interior designers require a license from the NCIDQ (National Council for Interior Design Qualification). By the way, I hold an NCIDQ certification. The three tests were similar to three of the nine state board exams I took to become an architect.

Interior decorators are a different breed. Instead of dealing with the items that are permanently attached and constructed within the building like an interior designer, interior decorators work with furniture, accessories like vases and candles, wallpaper, pillows, bedding, curtains, etc. These are generally things that happen after the building is built (maybe with the exception of wallpaper and paint color). Technically a decorator should not be specifying flooring since there are code requirements that are out of their purview in many cases.

If your house is already built, and you want an aesthetic makeover without any actual “construction,” then an interior decorator is who you want. If you want a makeover with a bit of a remodel that includes moving walls around and installing new cabinets, counters, light fixtures, and plumbing fixtures, then you could work with an interior designer. If you are doing an extensive remodel that encompasses most of the house or affects window and door replacement, then you should be working with an architect. If you are building an addition or a new building, you should also be working with an architect.

In summary, an architect can do everything an interior designer and interior decorator can do. An interior designer can do everything an interior decorator can do. An interior decorator cannot do things that an interior designer or architect can do (as mandated by law).

So why bother working with an interior decorator if an interior designer and architect can do decorating work?

There are 2 main reasons:

  1. Architects tend to have a huge scope of work dealing with the building code, zoning, waterproofing of the roof and facade, the overall design of the building, and all of the various material specifications that get built into the building. Adding decor into the mix tends to get outside of the trendy product knowledge that the architect knows, and the architect generally doesn’t have time to take you shopping for pillows among all those other tasks. Basically, their time and knowledge is maxed out with bigger picture items. Some architects do take on some decor items and have even been known to make custom plates, silverware, curtains, and even clothing to wear in the buildings they design.

  2. Interior decorators tend to get paid in ways that are not ethically allowed by architects. Architects generally bill for their time hourly or as a lump sum and must make decisions that are in the best interest of the safety of the people who occupy the building (not necessarily just the client). This means architects must recommend the best product for every situation that will meet all of the needs. Interior decorators do not need to adhere to that fiduciary duty. They often “rep” certain products and get “kickbacks” for selling them. This is not allowed for architects. Interior decorators often bill by marking up the cost of the items they client buys. The decorator will often purchase all the furniture and such, and they will sell it to the client at an inflated price. Often, decorators buy items at discounted rates due to agreements with certain manufacturers to only sell their products. Then, the decorators often mark up those discounted products to retail rates. At times, the decorator may be able to pass along a discount to the client.

So why work with an interior decorator instead of an architect?

  1. Similar to point #1 above, interior designers do tend to have more breadth of knowledge for certain interior products and decor than an architect has time for. As explained in point #2 above, interior designers often rep certain products like decorators do, so they can sometimes pass along discounts. The interior design profession is less regulated than the architectural profession, so interior designers can sometimes get away with not recommending the best product to defer to the ones they have a contractual agreement to represent.

  2. Interior designers tend to be somewhat cheaper than architects (although this is not always the case).

Why work with an architect instead of an interior designer or decorator?

  1. Since the work of an architect is all-encompassing, you will be working with the most knowledgeable person on all things relating to the building. There are so many times when architects work with designers that they make decisions that don’t comply with codes, don’t coordinate with mechanical, electrical, plumbing, and structural systems, or don’t coordinate with the construction sequence. Generally (not always) designers and decorators tend to be unfamiliar with construction. Architects often end up “fixing” things they do to make them work with the big picture.

  2. Designers and decorators tend to be another “cook in the kitchen.” When you add that additional party, it’s another bill to pay, another timeline to coordinate, and another set of information to integrate into the drawings. Every time we have worked with an interior designer, there has been overlap with a designer doing work that is already in the purview of the architect, and they often tend to try to expand their scope beyond what is allowable. In our experience, it would have just been easier if another party was not involved in our process since it confuses responsibilities, slows things down, and results in rework. If you’d like help with pillows and such, it’s best to coordinate that after the building is complete. It’s easier for everyone if the architect takes responsibility for all items that are permanently attached to the building.

If you’d like to learn more about our design process, visit www.josharch.com/process, and if you’d like to get us started on your project with a feasibility report, please visit www.josharch.com/help

Why We Don't Do Window Schedules /  by Josh Brincko

This is an example of a window schedule. It is very sterile and time consuming. By reading this schedule, the viewer really has no idea what the goal of a window might be or how it functions in the building. The window is “just a number.”

As an architect, I have to coordinate many parts of a building. This includes making sure the building is allowed to be built where I say it can be built, finding the right tile, coordinating all the different engineers, finding the right builder, ensuring water drains to the right places, settling neighbor disputes, and managing the expectations and goals of the clients - just to name a few. Ordering windows and doors is one of the many things an architect gets involved with.

When you order windows, it’s not like popping into the Home Depot to grab a few gallons of paint. It’s more like ordering a complicated coffee drink like a non-fat, super-mocha, extra hot, skinny-soy, caramel-chunky, frappa-what-the-fuckachino - or whatever you crazies like to get - and then multiply that for everyone in your office that you are buying “coffee” for :) Just give me a black coffee please! The “receipt” that we are given from the window supplier looks a lot like a medical insurance invoice with codes and abbreviations that don’t make sense to anyone, so it requires a lot of care, focus, and attention to ensure the order is correct before authorizing the windows (and doors) to be officially purchased.

This is an example of a door order. Window orders are very similar. Notice the coded language makes it a challenge to understand what all the options really mean. Every manufacturer uses different coded language too, so it is really challenging to decode this cryptic language.

In other words, there’s a lot of options for windows, so our industry has efficient (and non-efficient) ways of getting the order right. At the end of the day, the order consists of getting the right size, quantity, color/material, operability (how it opens), code requirements, and a few other options perfectly dialed-in. If we communicate something incorrectly, it can cost several thousand dollars and several weeks/months to get a replacement, so that is not an option. To get it right the first time, it is important that we communicate the goals clearly and concisely when placing the order.

The industry standard is to do a “window schedule.” The is a written list or chart that itemizes all the stuff listed above. Essentially, the architect designs the building, draws all the windows to a certain size, and then copies those sizes and other requirements onto the window schedule. When you copy info from one place to another, things get missed. Furthermore, when the plans change (and they do often on all projects), the drawings and window schedule both need to be changed to be consistent. This duplicate effort creates extra work AND an extra chance to mess something up.

We have learned that window schedules are 99% pointless. The window supplier reads the schedule once to put together the first order, and then nobody uses it ever again. Once the first window order is compiled, the architect reviews it to ensure all the parameters are correct, but they never are. So, the architect crosses out things on the order to get it updated to meet the requirements of the project and codes, and then the supplier submits an updated order for the architect’s 2nd review. Due to limitations of certain products and misunderstandings of the suppliers, this back-and-forth process commonly goes on and on for dozens of iterations. There are just so many parameters that make it unlikely to get it right the first time, and each window brand has different parameters that are unknown to the architect. Therefor, checking, and re-checking is obligatory.

As those iterations occur, the team uses the supplier’s order sheet (known as shop drawings) to make those updates. The team is NOT using the drawings or (pointless) window schedule when updating the order. The window supplier could care less about the drawings at that point. They just need to change the sizes or hardware on their software program as requested. For example, they might need to change the insulation value or maybe change the finish on window hardware such as a crank or latch. This is where the problems occur: since the supplier “lives” in their ordering software, they know nothing about the actual project. They just want to sell the windows as fast as possible. They don’t know the context of where a window needs to go, so they can’t offer useful suggestions or bother caring about providing windows that don’t meet basic requirements.

For example, it might be the goal for an upstairs window and a downstairs window to align with each other and be the same size. You don’t see that goal on a window schedule, so the supplier might miss it and provide mismatched products. On a window schedule, you don’t see that a hinged window might open directly into a BBQ on a deck, so a supplier might not make the right suggestion to order a window that opens in the most appropriate manner. The window schedule is such an isolated list of information that it breeds errors because it detaches its audience from the actual goals of the project. You can’t SEE the project by reading a list.

We prefer our window team to get to know the project instead of just hammering out an isolated list of products. What better way to get to know the project than to read/see the drawings and become invested in the success! By taking the time to SEE where the window goes, what it is for, and what the requirements might be, the team can work together to ensure the window order includes the best solution possible without silly mistakes. Windows are often around $1000 each or sometimes more, so getting invested in the solution is warranted. It’s not like it’s an order for a box of screws or caulking. Windows are a very permanent and expensive product that make a big impact on a project. A complete window package usually costs more than a car, so the time spent making the order correct is important.

This is why we don’t do window schedules. We won’t do it. They cause us to make errors as we make them and update them. Window schedules also cause the window vendors to make errors as they copy them into their software. For example, they might not offer a window in a certain size, so the vendor might change the size to something available. That size might not match with the windows around it, it might not be code compliant, or it might not even fit in the wall due to structural, plumbing, or mechanical ducts that may be in the way. By reading the drawings, the vendor can see those bits of info. By simply looking at a window schedule, that info is unknown.

We appreciate the good window vendors who understand this approach and get to know the projects. It is a big red flag when a vendor or builder insists otherwise. I see it as a sign of laziness if a vendor does not want to read the drawings that have actual pictures drawn of each window with labels that dictate their size, shape, how the window opens, etc. We expect our team to spend the time to read the plans, so they can all be invested in making the right selections for the project. The image below is an example of how our drawings show the size, location, and some of the other parameters of a window. Notice how window 34 aligns with window 35, and they both must fit and align as shown. This would not be evident if you just looked at a list of window sizes.

If you’d like to learn more about our design process, visit www.josharch.com/process, and if you’d like to get us started on your project with a feasibility report, please visit www.josharch.com/help

Electricity Basics Explained /  by Josh Brincko

Let’s get amped up to learn watt the heck is going on with 120 volt electricity (puns intended).

If you’re like most people, you don’t have any clue what watts, amps, and volts are, and you probably don’t care either. If that’s the case, this post is for you to inform you about the part that does matter for your life: why did my breaker trip (or in lamen’s terms: why isn’t my outlet or switch working)?

If you plugged something in or turned something on, and most of the things around you suddenly turned off, it’s helpful to know why, so you don’t keep making the same mistake. Usually, when the power in your room(s) suddenly goes out, it is because your electrical system in your home is working PROPERLY. It is YOU who failed. Let me explain.

In your home, each room or portion of your house is on a separate circuit. This means that a bunch of switches, lights, and outlets are all connected to each other similar to how you plug many strands of Christmas lights together in your Christmas tree. Those strands of lights are all connected to the same plug similar to how a “circuit” in your house has a bunch of outlets and lights connected to it. When you add too many things to one circuit, BOOM! Too much electricity in that wire causes an overload, and our electrical systems have safety devices built into them that prevents this overload from sparking into a major fire.

So what you really need to know is: how much is too much? It’s not really a matter of how many things are plugged in together. It’s more a matter of how much power those things need. For example, a hair dryer uses 1800 watts while a typical LED light bulb uses less than 10 watts. You can see that it would take 180 light bulbs to use the same amount of electricity as a hair dryer, so if someone leaves a light on, it’s actually negligible to someone who uses a hair dryer:)

An electric oven uses about 2000 watts, an electric stove uses about 2000 watts, and a portable space heater uses about 2000 watts. A home router uses about 5 watts, a tablet uses about 4 watts, and a tv uses about 25 watts. A coffee maker uses about 800 watts, and a toaster uses about 800 watts also.

As you can see, if it makes heat, it uses a lot of electricity, and if it doesn’t make heat, the energy consumption is pretty low. So what can you do with this new knowledge, smarty pants?

Let’s go back to the concept of a “circuit,” which is: many things all plugged into the same wire. A single circuit can only deliver a certain amount of electricity. It is common for each circuit in a home to either be 15 amps or 20 amps, and generally, each room has its own circuit. Again, this means that a single wire runs from your electrical panel to all the lights, outlets, and switches in a room, so all the electrical things in a room are connected together on the same circuit (like strands of Christmas lights plugged all together). A 15 amp circuit can power 1800 watts worth of things, and a 20 amp circuit can power 2400 watts of things.

So how do you know how many watts a room can tolerate? Well, you don’t. By looking at the outlets and lights, there’s no way of knowing. So for sake of not plugging in too many things, just assume each room can tolerate approximately 2000 watts give or take. If you wanted to know for sure, you can look in your electrical panel, and the electrician likely labeled each switch in there. Each numbered switch has a little label on it for how many amps it is. So you can remember 15 amps equals 1800 watts, and 20 amps equals 2400 watts. Or the actual formula is volts times amps equals watts (VA=W). I hope I didn’t lose you there.

Even if you have done the extraordinarily difficult and laborious task of opening your electrical panel to check for how many amps a certain room can handle, that still doesn’t give you an exact answer. The reason is that sometimes more than one room are all wired together on a single circuit, or sometimes one room might have several different circuits that serve it. Also, sometimes there is a “dedicated circuit” for certain outlets such as a refrigerator, electric stove, or other item that sucks a lot of power. This means that just one outlet has its own circuit which is separate from everything else in that room. So to truly know which outlets and lights are in a certain switch/circuit in your electrical panel, you’d have to turn on everything in your house (and plug in something to every outlet), and then you’d have to flip a breaker switch in your electrical panel to take note of which items turn off. Usually the little label your electrician put on your panel is not that descriptive.

Why isn’t everything just on one circuit? Copper, safety, and convenience. If there’s a problem with too much electricity flowing through a circuit, that gets dangerous. It’s better if sparks go flying in less places instead of more places. Also, if too much electricity passes through a particular circuit, it could actually fry the wire (and the stuff plugged into the various outlets connected to it). It is easier to diagnose the problem (and less damage occurs) when you know which circuit had the problem based on which switch in your electrical panel flipped. If there’s too much electricity flowing through a circuit, why not just make the wires bigger to accommodate higher levels of flow? That would actually work just fine, BUT, bigger wires = more copper, and more copper = more money (and it’s more difficult to work with thicker wires for the electrician). Basically, it’s just safer and easier if the wires are smaller, and this is facilitated by having many small circuits instead of just one big circuit in a home.

Ok, so maybe you understood this basic explanation of how electrical things work in a home, but how do you know how many watts something is so you can actually try and keep your circuit at a manageable 1800 watts or 2400 watts? It’s pretty simple by just keeping in mind that things that make heat use a lot of watts, and other things generally don’t - so just use good, reasonable judgement. If you’re more of a calculation geek, you can look at the bottom or back of most products, and it will have a sticker or embossed label that lists the wattage like the example images below. Once you know this, it becomes interesting and more responsible to know the cause and effect of your own electricity usage habits.

If you’d like to learn more about our design process, visit www.josharch.com/process, and if you’d like to get us started on your project with a feasibility report, please visit www.josharch.com/help

Is making a window bigger considered a structural change? /  by Josh Brincko

When you make a window bigger, is that considered a structural change? This is an important question since it could trigger the need for a building permit and some jurisdictions. The thresholds are different in each location for whether you need a permit or not, but in many places, structural changes are the determining factor of when you would need to get a building permit. In some locations, They require building permits for non-structural changes, or at least they try to, even though the wording in their codes has exceptions to the rules. In this essay, we will focus on whether a change to your window would trigger the need for a building permit.

Same Size Window

If you are simply removing a window and replacing it with another window of the same size, this would not require a building permit in most jurisdiction. This is because you are not altering the structure of the building. Some locations do require permits if you are changing anything at all on a façade, but there still might be other exceptions in their code that enable you to change a window without a building permit. Often there is a rule that allows you to do $6000 of work within any six month. Period without the requirement for a building permit. Even if a building permit is not required, the work that you do must still be done according to the code. In your location, there is likely a requirement for the insulation value that a window must have, whether or not the window needs to be tempered (safety glass), or whether it needs to have a certain size for emergency exiting. Depending on the situation, you may not need a permit, but you might need to comply with those regulations on the honor system. Generally, if you are changing a window out for a window of the same size or even a smaller window, a permit would normally not be required. This is because you are not changing the structure, and assuming the building was legally built in the first place, than the window that was originally there would still be allowed to be there when replaced with a similar product.

Windows of a Larger Height

If you are removing a window and replacing it with a larger window, this might not be considered as a structural change. How can that be? If the width of the window stays the same, and just the height gets larger, that means that the header beam above the window and posts on each side of the window stay the same size and do not need any changes whatsoever. The portions of the wall below the windowsill are non-structural, and do not support anything other than the window itself. Structurally, it is fine to replace a window of a larger height, since it does not have any effect on the structure in most cases. This means it would normally not require a building permit to make that change, unless your jurisdiction has specific rules for permit requirements that relate to non-structural items.

Windows of a Larger Width

If you are replacing a window with one that is wider, this is considered a structural change. This is because the header beam above the window needs to get wider, and the posts that support that header need to be relocated. You also will end up with less wall and more glass. This is important because walls support the floors and roofs above. If you have less wall, you have less support. Also, walls are covered with plywood that also resist the side to side forces from earthquakes and wind. Glass cannot resist those forces, so when you add glass and reduce wall, you are not only reducing the strength of the wall from what it supports above, you are also reducing it’s strength from lateral side to side movements. For those reasons, making a window wider well almost always trigger the requirement for a building permit.

Other Considerations

In some cases, a window might be in a wall that is required to have a fire rating. When you replace that window, you need to ensure that you are maintaining the required fire protection on that wall. In those situations, there are also limitations to the amount of window surface that a wall is allowed to have. If you add more window, you might exceed the percentage of that wall that is allowed to be non-fire rated, and windows are not fire rated.

In other situations, the building department might be concerned with the aesthetic considerations of the window. Some wind use codes do scrutinize the appearance with regard to the material, color, size, proportion, and overall relationship to the architectural character of the neighborhood. In that case, any change to a window might require a building permit. This is why it is best to consult with a professional experienced with the codes in your locality to verify if the changes you are making will be compliant with all the rules. In

If you’d like to learn more about our design process, visit www.josharch.com/process, and if you’d like to get us started on your project with a feasibility report, please visit www.josharch.com/help

Palm Springs (Mid Century Modern) /  by Josh Brincko

As often as possible, I like to take a trip to get my creative juices flowing and inspire new ways of thinking about design and construction. My latest trip was to Palm Springs, California with the goal of seeing as much of my favorite type of architecture as possible: mid-century modern! My wife set the whole think up which made it extra special:) I was lucky enough to do a city tour of all the architectural gems while on the top level of a double decker bus. This is important since a common facet of mid-century modern design is to use site walls, fences, and landscaping to create exterior rooms. Being on the top level of the bus allows you to be high enough to see over these barriers to be able to enjoy the architecture. Sounds creepy, but it’s all in an effort to see cool design:) I also got to tour the Frey House II which was the personal residence of the prominent local architect, Albert Frey: https://www.psmuseum.org/visit/frey-house . He was very innovative in his use of material, integration of architecture with nature, and seeing architecture as a place of living and not just something to be looked at. Lastly I got to enjoy a lecture about one of my favorite architects of all time, the man responsible for modern architecture as we know it: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Walter_Gropius . I hope you enjoy the images as much as I do!

I love how you can see THROUGH the sculpture!

This is like being INSIDE of a kaleidoscope!

If you’d like to learn more about our design process, visit www.josharch.com/process, and if you’d like to get us started on your project with a feasibility report, please visit www.josharch.com/help

Seattle Energy Code Explained /  by S. Joshua Brincko

Whether you are a homeowner, builder, or architect, you will be faced with the energy code if you’re doing a building project in Seattle (or anywhere in Washington). The building department tricks you into thinking you might “earn” something because you get “energy credits” by complying with the energy code. You don’t “get” anything. Energy “credits” would be a more accurate name if they were called energy “requirements” or energy “mandates.”

The state of Washington passed a set of laws called the energy code. Within the energy code, it tells you how you must save energy and resources based on the type/size of project you are doing. For example, if you are remodeling your bathroom, it tells you whether or not you need to replace your old windows with newer, more energy efficient ones in other rooms that are not part of the project like your bedroom or kitchen. It also gets into the efficiency of your lights, hot water, heater, air conditioner, ventilation, and insulation. The code basically tells you the bare minimums of what you need to do when you build stuff, so the building doesn’t waste too much energy. Honestly, most builders meet the energy code requirements by simply building according to their own normal practices. Those normal practices don’t typically achieve the higher standards that are listed in the energy credit list.

So what is an “energy credit?” The Washington State Energy Code has a list of things you “can” do to make your project more efficient. These are things that are above and beyond the bare minimums in the rest of the code chapters. You get to “choose” which “credits” you would like to earn. The word, “choice,” is really used loosely here. Yes, you do get to choose which energy efficient credits you’d like to earn, but there’s really not much of a choice. You are required to earn the credits, and it is getting really difficult to earn enough credits to comply with the minimum requirements.

Some examples of energy credits include:

  1. Insulating your walls, floors, ceiling, doors, and windows beyond the minimum standards.

    1. PROBLEM: to earn credits in this category, you need to build walls, floors, and roofs thicker to fit more insulation, and you need to by REALLY expensive windows that are more efficient. This really drives up the construction cost. Additionally, it is nearly impossible to even find windows that meet the highest energy credit standards, so it’s like finding a unicorn. There was a rumor that Lithuania sold windows that met that efficiency standard, but guess what: they are not “certified” for use in the USA (and good luck shipping glass from Lithuania).

  2. Sealing your house really well, so air cannot leak out or in.

    1. PROBLEM: this seems simple enough to use caulking and such to ensure we don’t infiltrate air out of our homes. Honestly, we do such a good job wrapping our homes in an envelope, that we now need to add vent fans to keep fresh air moving to avoid mold from developing. The bigger problem with earning credits in this category is you have to SAY you are going to seal your house really well when you apply for the permit, but you have no control over how well it will be sealed once it is finished being built. Basically, at the end of construction, the builder hires a consultant to perform a blower door test. This is done by shutting all the doors and windows except for one door. That door is fitted with a plastic tarp with a fan on it, and the fan is hooked up to a computer. The computer can measure how much air is leaking out of the house as the fan blows a known amount of air through it. If the test is failed, then you don’t earn that required credit. Now what? You can’t just peel the siding off and re-caulk all the windows and seams between plywood panels. If you don’t pass the test, then you must scramble to earn credits in some other category. We have had builders explain how proud they are of their work - only to surprisingly find that they were over 3 times the legal amount of air infiltration. This credit is too risky to rely on.

  3. Installing high efficiency heating and cooling equipment.

    1. PROBLEM: this is a credit that you basically must earn. By simply buying a furnace or heat pump that has the required certification, you earn the points. It is easy to rely on this credit since the sticker on the side of the equipment proves that it complies regardless of how good or bad the house was built. The problem is this equipment is expensive - but you essentially have no other option. The other problem is you can really only install the equipment that your builder’s installer is certified to install, so hopefully they have access to the equipment you will be required to have.

  4. Installing high efficiency water heaters.

    1. PROBLEM: this is essentially the same conversation as item #3 above. It’s a reliable option, but it will cost you.

  5. Installing solar panels or wind turbines.

    1. PROBLEM: these are high cost items to install. If you can’t meet other energy credits (or if you fail to achieve certain credits), then you might be stuck installing some solar panels. The cost of solar panels takes many years to get a return on your investment, but the biggest problem is more of an ethical one as explained in our previous essay entitled, “Should You Get Solar Panels?” Basically, solar panels MAKE electricity, but the focus should really be on CONSERVING electricity. We can conserve by using more insulation and by caulking/wrapping our walls a bit tighter. The money spent on extra insulation and caulk to save energy is quite a bit cheaper than the money spent on solar panels to make more energy.

  6. Installing energy efficient appliances.

    1. PROBLEM: appliances are one of those items that are really a personal preference sort of thing. Sometimes we like the features on a certain dishwasher, and we want to spend our hard-earned money on the one we like rather than the one that has a certain energy rating. This credit is a bit of government overreach in my opinion. Additionally, you don’t earn many points for this credit option.

In summary, the Washington State Energy Code tells us what we need to do, and it gives a list of energy credits that we must comply with. Small projects need to earn less credits than large ones. In our experience, the only reliable way to earn the required amount of energy credits is to install really really really expensive and efficient heat pumps to heat/cool our homes and water heaters to provide hot water to our showers, laundry, and sinks. In other words, if you intend on doing a home project, prepare to pay for a new heating system.

If you’d like to learn more about our design process, visit www.josharch.com/process, and if you’d like to get us started on your project with a feasibility report, please visit www.josharch.com/help

Artificial Intelligence in Architecture /  by S. Joshua Brincko

People often ask me what impact I believe artificial intelligence (AI) may have on architecture. For what it’s worth, I don’t really care much, but I do have some thoughts on it. Also, Elon Musk and his brother have a pact that they never bring up the topic of AI at dinner parties because it turns into a long, drawn out conversation rooted in speculation and can often turn into a heated debate.

Because AI does stuff for us, the question is always: how much does it do, and what is the quality of the work?

I equate AI with hiring an intern. Yes, you can tell an intern to do work for you, BUT would you expect it to be complete, final quality work? Hell no! You know they give it a good hard college try, and then you need to review their work to offer them further guidance for several iterations until they get it right (and learn how to do it properly). As the saying goes, “if you want it done right, do it yourself.”

This is exactly how AI works. Ask for something, check it, give it feedback, check it again, rinse, repeat, and eventually you just take it to the finish line on your own. It is not recommended to use AI without oversight. The AI software (like ChatGPT) actually says this on the little disclaimer. Don’t expect too much!

Yes, AI is always learning - just like an intern - but learning is something that never ends in the field of architecture. Architecture is called a “practice.” This means we are always “practicing” our craft. Architects are professionals who need to try things that have never been done before since the conditions are always different. Architects use professional judgement. This is described further in www.josharch.com/blog/design-practice.

AI does not use “professional judgement.” AI only does it the same way it was done a previous time. If it was never done before, AI doesn’t know how to do it. Also, there’s so many situational conditions that could be done PROPERLY in many different ways, BUT there is usually a BETTER way of doing something. For example, the architect may have had a conversation with the client about doing option A or option B. AI doesn’t know what you talked about. The client might want the ugly, more expensive option that AI wouldn’t tend to automatically provide. Also, there’s codes that are VERY ambiguous and often get interpreted based on how good of a day the building department reviewer is having. Plus, a good architect will argue an outcome in the favor of a client. That interpretation becomes a requirement for only that situation, and AI doesn’t know what some disillusioned government employee may have decided. The codes are always changing, and the codes are different from one place to another. AI is only up-to-date if it got trained (like an intern) for that very specific time and place. AI is not making professional judgements.

Because of the training that AI must undergo to become relevant, it will never “beat” a real architect in making the right choices. The only way this would ever happen is if mankind acquiesced and decided to just do whatever AI tells us to do - even though it’s not the safest and best option. I don’t see that happening. We aren’t that lazy.

So what is AI good for in the architecture profession? It’s really good for rough drafts. You can give it some basic parameters, and it will spit out a decent draft email, a preliminary design concept, or a list of relevant design considerations. If you ask it for something, it will give you something back that is usually at least a little more helpful than staring at a blank piece of paper.

AI can possibly help to elevate the profession since it can often provide a more advanced starting point for architects to start doing what they already do while eliminating some of the menial tasks. If architects can focus on the more intellectual parts of the job, then they can dedicate their expertise to the areas they really excel at. The outcome might be better, more creative buildings for everyone to enjoy. I am excited to see what the future will bring, but I expect to shape that future instead of artificial intelligence doing it for me.

If you’d like to learn more about our design process, visit www.josharch.com/process, and if you’d like to get us started on your project with a feasibility report, please visit www.josharch.com/help

NR Zoning in Seattle /  by Josh Brincko

If you have read our other posts on zoning codes in Seattle, you might be confused. Don't worry, because we are confused too! The rules keep changing over and over again, so we are doing our best to keep up with it. The reason they have changed (most recently) is related to the state of Washington’s goal to create more housing throughout the State. The state government mandated that all residential lots are allowed to have at least 4 dwelling units (with certain exceptions). The local jurisdictions struggled to implement those new rules, so they did it in a very haphazard way. Architects had to figure out how to implement the new rules in a very short amount of time, and this was very challenging because none of it was very clear. The rules were actually not even published in a ordinary and public-facing way like they used to be. In fact, when you look up the land use codes on the ordinary website, it still shows you the old codes at the time of this writing. You have to be a detective to dig up the real rules in their current state, and even then, it is never certain which rules are adopted into law and which are still proposals. We will summarize those new codes below to the best of our ability.

Floor Area

Floor area ratio is basically a calculation of how much living space you are allowed to have on a property. The building department incentivizes land owners to have more dwelling units on a property by allowing more floor area. The calculation is somewhat complicated to understand, but essentially, if you have 1 dwelling for each 4000sf of land, you are allowed to have a floor area ratio of 60%. In other words, if you have an ordinary 5000sf lot with just 1 dwelling unit on it, you could have 3000sf of floor area in that dwelling since 60% of 5000sf is 3000sf. The ratio changes to 80% if you have 1 dwelling per 2201sf-4000sf of lot area. For example, if your lot is 5000sf, and you have 2 dwellings, the math looks like this: 5000/2=2500. 2500 is between 2201 and 4000, so you would qualify for the 80% ratio. This would enable you to have 4000sf of floor area. Next, the ratio changes to 100% if you have 1 dwelling per 1601sf-2200sf of lot area. For example, if your lot is 5000sf, and you have 3 dwellings, the math looks like this: 5000/3=1666. 1666 is between 1601 and 2200, so you would qualify for the 100% ratio. This would enable you to have 5000sf of floor area. Lastly, the ratio changes to 160% if you have 1 dwelling per 0sf-1600sf of lot area. For example, if your lot is 5000sf, and you have 4 dwellings, the math looks like this: 5000/4=1250. 1250 is less than 1600, so you would qualify for the 160% ratio. This would enable you to have 8000sf of floor area. You can apply that logic to a lot of any size for any number of dwellings. Note that if your lot is less than 5000sf, you are always allowed to have at least 2500sf of floor area no matter what the math says.

It is important to note that there are exceptions to what counts as floor area and what does not. The big idea is that usable floor space counts against your limit. Unfortunately, garages do count as useable space, so there’s no exception there. The city does allow you to exclude basements in most cases, so if you’re willing to dig deep and spend money on a basement, that extra square footage will not count against you. There are also nuances to the rules for projects that are stacked dwellings, low income dwellings, senior housing, and projects within close proximity to frequent transit service, but we will not cover those concepts here since they are very specific.

Maximum Density

There is also a limit to the number of dwellings you can have on each lot. The rules are quite complicated, but generally speaking, there are benefits that mainly apply to stacked dwelling units and dwellings in close proximity to frequent transit service. Otherwise, you are limited to one dwelling per 1250sf of lot area. This means that if you have a 5000sf lot, you can have 4 dwelling units since 5000/1250=4. If your lot is less than 5000sf, there is also an exception that still allows you to have 4 dwelling units unless there is a wetland, steep slope, shoreline, or other environmental critical area (ECA’s) on the lot. 5000sf is the magic number for a property. In fact, if any new lots are created, they must be at least 5000sf. If a lot is less than 7500sf and more than 1/4 mile from a major transit stop, it is allowed to have up to 6 dwellings as long as it doesn’t have any ECA’s as described previously, and as long as at least 2 of the units are designated as low-income housing. An ECA on a lot gets tricky for density calculations because you also have the option to calculate the number of residential units allowed as described previously and then to multiply it by the percentage of the lot that is NOT covered by an ECA. Regardless of the calcs, a lot is always allowed to have at least one dwelling unit. If the math results in a fraction over 0.85, you get to round up.

Height Limit

Generally, the height limit of residences is 32 feet plus an additional 5 feet for gabled roofs sloped at least 4:12. Shed and butterfly roofs are allowed to extend an additional 3 feet (and 4 feet at the overhanging portion). Railings for roof decks on flat roofs are allowed to extend an additional 4’ above the limit. Solar panels can also extend 4 feet above the limit. The city allows you to increase the height limit to 42 feet if the front setback is increased to 20 feet and there are at least 3 dwelling units. The higher limit is also allowed in certain situations with stacked dwelling units, but those nuances will not be covered here. Accessory structures (like garages) are limited to 12 feet in height when they are located in required setbacks, and the ridge of the roof can extend an additional 3 feet if it is pitched at an angle of at least 4:12. Lastly, older homes can exceed height limits by an additional 8 inches for the sole purpose of adding insulation.

Lot Coverage

The maximum percentage of a lot that can be covered with buildings is 50%. This means a 5000sf lot can have up to 2500sf of lot coverage. When calculating lot size for this calculation, you must exclude any environmental critical areas from the lot size. Essentially, any structure taller than 3 feet counts against lot coverage. Things that are exempt from lot coverage are decks less than 36 inches tall, unenclosed porches/steps less than 4 feet tall (above grade or street lot line), and most unenclosed structures. The maximum lot coverage is increased to 60% for stacked dwellings and also when dwellings that are in a frequent transit area are less than 3 stories and arranged around a shared green space that is at least 20% of the lot size.

Setbacks

When a lot has one or two dwelling units, the front and rear setback are 15 feet, and the side setbacks must calculate to an average of 5 feet (3 feet minimum). With three or more dwelling units, the front and rear setbacks are reduced to 10 feet. If a lot abuts an alley, the rear setback is always reduced to 0 feet. When a lot is less than 5000sf in a frequent transit service area, the rear setback is reduced to 5 feet and the side setback is reduced to 3 feet. Accessory dwelling units only require a 5 foot rear setback (and 0 feet when there is an alley).

There are certain exceptions to the setbacks for some architectural features. For example, roof overhangs, chimneys, and similar features can extend 2 feet into a setback (but never closer than 3 feet to a lot line). Bay windows can extend 2 feet into front and rear setbacks as long as they are no closer than 5 feet to the lot line, less than 10 feet wide, and no more than 30% of that facade. Unenclosed porches and steps that are less than 4 feet in height can extend to within 5 feet of a street lot line and 3 feet of a side lot line. Guardrails less than 42 inches high may exceed the 4 foot limit. Porches and steps can be covered if the cover is 5 feet away from lot lines and less than 15 feet above grade. That roof cannot be used as a deck either. The total area of porches attached to an individual dwelling unit is limited to 60 sf when located within a setback. When structures are less than 18 inches tall, they are allowed within any setback. Always be sure to leave at least a 2.5 foot wide walking path in side setbacks. Unenclosed structures are allowed within rear setbacks if they are not within 5 feet of that rear lot line (unless there is an alley), they are less than 12' feet high, and they are separated from the dwelling by at least 3 feet.

Detached garages and carports have different setback rules. They are allowed to be within side setbacks when they are within 40 feet of an alley centerline or within 25 feet of the rear lot line when there is not an alley. Otherwise, an agreement must be made with the abutting neighbor. They can be within rear setbacks as long as they are not within 5 feet of the rear property line. When one-car garages and carports are a maximum of 14 feet wide, they are limited to 300sf within the front setback. Two-car garages and carports can be a maximum of 24' feet wide with up to 600sf within the front setback. Their roof overhangs are excluded from coverage and size limits when less than a 2 foot extension, and the roofs of garages may not be used as decks when they are in rear or side setbacks.

Fences are allowed to be 6 feet tall within setbacks, but they may only be 4 feet tall within street setbacks. When a fence is on top of a retaining wall, they are limited to 4' feet tall, and the combined height of a retaining wall and fence cannot exceed 9.5 feet within setback areas. Fences are required to be setback at least 3 feet from retaining walls. Mechanical equipment must be at least 3 feet away from any lot line.

Existing structures that do not conform to these rules are allowed to be kept in place. Additions to those structures may also extend into a setback to the same amount as long as they are never closer than 3 feet to a lot line.

When there are more than one structure on a lot that contains floor area, those structures must be separated by at least 5' feet from each other and architectural features can extend 2 feet into these separation areas. Keep in mind that fire ratings are required when structures are less than 10 feet from each other.

Amenity Area

Each dwelling unit must have access to either a common or private amenity area. Those amenity areas must be at least 120sf and have a width and depth of at least 8 feet. Balconies are allowed to be as small as 60sf with a width and depth of at least 4 feet. Amenity areas may not include driveways, parking, bike parking, trash storage, or enclosed structures. Also, pathways that serve multiple dwelling units cannot be within amenity areas. Environmental critical areas may count as amenity areas. When adding one dwelling unit to an existing dwelling, amenity area is not required. Amenity area can also be exempted when development retains a tier 2 tree, when a certain tree point score can be achieved, or when new or existing medium and large trees can cover 10% of a lot at their maturity.

Tree Requirements

When adding a dwelling unit, trees must be planted or retained to earn a certain tree score as listed below or at least one new tree for every 2500sf of lot area (whichever calculates out to the greater number of trees). The tree score calculations are commensurate with the different dwelling density ratios that were described in the floor area ratio commentary previously. When there is less than 1 dwelling per 4000sf of lot area, you must earn 1 point for every 500sf of lot area. When there is 1 dwelling per 2201sf to 4000sf of lot area, you must earn 1 point for every 600sf of lot area. When there is 1 dwelling per 1601sf to 2200sf of lot area, you must earn 1 point for every 675sf of lot area. When there is 1 dwelling per 1601sf or less of lot area, you must earn 1 point for every 750sf of lot area. Preserved trees and new trees count toward the scoring. Depending on the size and species of trees, there are different point values for each tree assigned per Table B of 23.44.120. Generally, trees must be planted a specific minimum distance away from dwelling units ranging from 2 feet to 8 feet or more away. The Dept of Transportation decides how many street trees must be provided when one or more dwellings are added.

Parking

Parking must typically be accessed via an alley when there is an alley. Otherwise it can be accessed from a driveway connecting to the street. If access to parking passes through a setback, it may be used for parking. Surface parking is generally not allowed to be within 20 feet of a street lot line or within 5 feet of a side street lot line unless it is accessed through an alley.

If you’d like to learn more about our design process, visit www.josharch.com/process, and if you’d like to get us started on your project with a feasibility report, please visit www.josharch.com/help