Protect Your Home’s Privacy: BLUR IT! / October 1, 2025 by Josh Brincko

Street view and aerial view maps can be pretty cool and helpful. We have all used this technology to see where we are going and what something looks like where we may be visiting. Most of us have viewed our own homes too. It’s kind of fun and convenient.

The “convenient” part is really the topic of this article. We don’t want to make it too convenient for unwanted people to see our home. Of course, anyone could just do a drive-by to see our home, but we can’t do anything about that. Sometimes, just making it difficult is all you need to do to protect your privacy. Do we really need everyone in the world to be able to see our private home so easily?

Here’s an example. We have had many clients who cut down a tree that was damaging their home or even built a shed for their kids’ bikes. Then some years later, they applied for a building permit. Guess what the sneaky building department reviewers do? They study images of your home on street view. They notice a tree stump, a missing tree that they do see on aerial view, or even a shed at the end of your driveway. Then they issue a notice as they review your permit application that requires you to resolve an issue with an illegal building or tree removal. This actually happens often.

Here’s the thing. When you cut that tree, you had no idea that it was protected or restricted in some way. It was completely innocent. Most people don’t know that they can’t just cut down certain trees on their own property. Most people have a really good reason for doing what they do on their own property, but the bottom feeders at the building department are not shy about raising a stink about it. They will issue a violation, and make you get a permit after-the-fact (which may not be possible), and they may issue fines until you mitigate the issue according to their rules.

This is crazy because they are basically making up the rules as they go. Sure the codes are published and passed by city council, but nobody knows that. It’s not like a speed limit that has a sign that tells you what you can and cannot do on public property. On your own property, you have to follow their mysterious rules that 99.99% of people don’t know or understand. In fact, even if you knew where to look up the rule, most people that aren’t practicing architects could not even understand that legal jargon anyway. It really creates a condition where you are likely to break a law because it’s virtually impossible to know and understand all the laws.

This is why it makes a lot of sense to limit what the government knows. If they can’t see your home on street view, then it’s a little less data available to them that they can later use to show that you broke some rule that you didn’t even know you broke. It’s kind of like driving with a cop behind you. If you make the slightest mistake, the cop is there to see it, and you are much more likely to get a ticket. This is why I always pull over when a cop is driving behind me. I don’t want to take any chance that I might get a ticket for something inconsequential that I don’t even know I’m doing wrong. So why give the building department that opportunity with our homes? Let’s take that opportunity away as best as possible. Here’s how:

Google Maps Street View

Navigate to your address
Click on “report a problem” (you might need to click on the 3 dots first)
Fill out the form
Shift the image so your house fits in the box
Repeat as needed until all views of your property have been reported

Apple Maps Street View

Send an email to: MapsImageCollection@apple.com
Type your address and let them know you’d like your house and property blurred for privacy concerns

Bing Maps Street View

Navigate to your address
On the disclaimer at the bottom, click on “report a privacy concern with this image”
Select home on the dropdown and fill out the rest of the form
Repeat as needed until all views of your property have been reported

After you do this, it could take a few weeks for the images to be blurred. Unfortunately, at the time of this writing, there is no way to blur the aerial photos of your home. Only the secret service was able to do that with certain federal buildings (like the White House).

If you’d like to go even further, you can even have real estate photos removed from sites like Redfin and Zillow. Again, those sites provide a snapshot of the condition of the inside of your home when you bought it. If you had an electrician add a light or outlet or whatever, technically that required a permit and an inspection. Did that happen? If not, some future inspector could compare those real estate photos to the current condition and spot items that may not have been done according to their process. This could even happen if some previous owner did work to your home. If they removed a wall, changed a window, added a shower, etc, you will be held accountable for those items if they didn’t get a permit for them.

What tends to happen is people apply for a permit for something else in their home, and in the course of getting the permit approved or from hosting required inspections, those things might be noticed by the inspector. Then, you will have to get permits for them after-the-fact.

Sometimes that is not so easy because the plumbing, electrical, screws, nails, or other hardware is concealed under the drywall, so you may need to unbuild it to prove it was built properly (by the previous owner’s builder who you have no control over). You may not realize it, but the size of screws, number of nails, and thickness of plywood are all things subject to scrutiny by the building department.

If you like your home, and you’d prefer not to give the building department (or others) extra information about your home, here’s how you can remove images from real estate sites:

Redfin

You will need to login, so make an account
You will need to “claim” your home on your account
When you are logged in, click on the dropdown on your name at the top right
Click “owner dashboard”
Select your home
Click “edit photos”
Check the box to “hide listing photos”

Zillow

Log into your account or make an account
Click on the “more” dropdown
Click on “verify your ownership”
Answer the questions
Click on your profile icon
Select your home
Click on the tile for your home to load the property page
Click on “Edit Facts” icon from Owner View of the property page
Remove the photos and save

Realtor.com

Go to realtor.com/myhome
Type in your address
Click the magnifying glass
Claim your home by following the prompts
Go to your profile
Click on “my home” tab
Click on “owner dashboard”
Click “remove photos”
If you have problems, reach out to support.realtor.com/s/contactsupport

You should also contact your real estate agent and ask them to remove as much information they can from the Multiple Listing Service (MLS) database. I hope these tips will help to protect your privacy and save you some grief if you ever go through a permit process.

If you’d like to learn more about our design process, visit www.josharch.com/process, and if you’d like to get us started on your project with a feasibility report, please visit www.josharch.com/help

New Seattle Land Use Code Changes (NR1, NR2, and NR3 zoning) / September 1, 2025 by Josh Brincko

If you’re confused and not sure where to start for planning a small remodel, or even a large addition, or a totally new construction project for your house in Seattle and other areas, you are not a stupid, total idiot:) Even for a seasoned veteran architect in Seattle who specializes in residential architecture, the codes, rules, regulations, policies, etc are very confusing to say the least. If anyone is a stupid idiot, it’s the ones who wrote the codes in such difficult language:) I am here to help, and this post is your guide to help you navigate the thick bureaucracy. (It is also worth noting there is a major difference between the “building code” and “land use code”. This post only dives into the “land use code” to help you understand WHAT/WHERE you are allowed to build on your property and not the “building code” which gets into the specifics of HOW to build something.)

All of the housing rules in Seattle got significantly changed in 2025, so be sure to educate yourself by reviewing the paragraphs below.

The land use code classification that is applicable to most single family homes in Seattle is known as NR3 (formerly named SF5000, SF7200 renamed to NR2, and SF9600 renamed to NR1 for larger lots). The “SF” meant: Single Family. The 5000 meant the property is more or less 5000 square feet. The rules are pretty much the same for all these zones except for the bigger lot sizes. The new naming convention of “NR” means “Neighborhood Residential.”

OVERVIEW

The most basic, common concepts in NR zoning are yard setbacks, maximum percentage of lot coverage, floor area ratio, and height limit. Some of the other nuances in the codes are the exceptions to all these rules, tree requirements, and parking requirements. Some projects may also involve various other codes for garages, ADU’s (accessory dwelling units), DADU’s (detached accessory dwelling units), existing nonconforming uses (projects with non-compliant stuff that is “grandfathered in” since it was built before the codes existed), allowable uses (like using your house as a hotel), and ECA’s (properties within environmental critical areas such as steep slopes, shorelines, etc).

In Seattle, I have dealt with zero properties that are straightforward. There is always something weird about each lot such as a part of the existing house that was built too close to the property line, a part of the lot that is considered an ECA because it is too steep, something a previous owner built without a permit, difficulty in determining which side is technically considered the “front,” or a tree the city won’t allow you to remove (which causes the lot to be less than ideal to build on). Because of these anomalies that always seem to pop up, no two projects have ever been the same (and I do about 100 of them each year). The rest of this blog post will dig into each topic separately to attempt to give you some insight into each of the major codes for NR zoning. Although this will give you a basic understanding, please reach out for confirmation since this stuff gets really complicated and must be vetted (we are not liable for your use of the information herein). Also, just because the code says something in “black and white,” the building department may actually interpret it to mean something completely different. And, they are not always correct in what they tell you. I commonly argue with them to show them what the rules actually mean (and not let them bestow their “opinions” on me). There’s usually some compromise, but I’ve never lost an argument with the building department.

HEIGHT LIMIT

Let’s start with the height limit since it’s one of the easiest to understand. The maximum height of a house is permitted to be 32’, and this is measured from the “average ground height” to the top of the highest wall. A sloped roof of a certain angle (4:12) can extend an additional 5’ higher. The average ground height is determined by measuring the height of the ground at the middle of each exterior wall and taking the average of those. For example, if the ground sloped down so the front was 2 feet higher than the ground at the back of the house, and the sides were each 1’ higher than the back of the house, then (2’+1’+1’+0’)/4 = 1’. So in other words, the average ground level is 1’ higher than the back, and 1’ lower than the front. If you measure 32’ up from this imaginary line called “average grade,” the house could be 31’ tall in the front and 33’ tall in the back. The sloped roof can go another 5’ higher, and you’re also allowed to have chimneys, vents, skylights, and dormers of limited sizes within this 5’ bonus area (and sometimes higher). There’s also exceptions for green roofs and certain features of roof decks. As you can see, it’s not as simple as just saying: your house can be 32’ tall.

SETBACKS (YARDS)

Next, let’s review setbacks. A setback is the distance from a property line where you are not allowed to build (certain things). To be able to determine setbacks from each property line, you first need to know where the property lines are. No, your fence, sidewalk, curb, rockery, driveway, or that thing the old guy in the neighborhood showed you once is likely NOT THE PROPERTY LINE. Sorry. It’s probably not. A property line must be determined by a licensed surveyor by taking precise measurements with very technical instruments. Then, they put a surveyor’s pin to mark the location of the property corner (and sometimes these are intentionally placed NOT on the corner of the property as you may expect).

Once you know WHERE the property lines are, THEN you can determine which is considered the front, side, and rear property lines. This may seem straightforward, but sometimes it is not. This is too complicated to write about here, so let’s talk about this topic on a case-by-case basis. Feel free to reach out since your front door, address location, your actual street address, or your driveway do not actually determine which property line is the front.

In NR zoning, the front setback is 15’, but if you have 3 or more dwelling units, you can reduce it to only 10’. The rear setback for NR zoning is also based on the number of units you have on the lot. If you have 1 or 2 dwellings, you need to provide a 15’ setback from the rear property line, and if you have 3 or more dwellings, you only need to provide a 10’ rear setback. If you have an alley, you are allowed to build directly up to the rear property line (regardless of how many units you have). The side setback is easy in NR zoning. It’s 5’. At least that one is easy! There are also a lot of exceptions to the rules for various parts of a structure, so be sure to consult with us for specific clarification.

LOT COVERAGE

The next topic is lot coverage. In NR zoning, you are allowed to cover 35% of your lot with structures. If the lot is less than 5000SF, then you are allowed to cover 15% of the lot plus 1000SF. If your lot abuts an alley, you are allowed to factor 1/2 of the area of the alley into your calculation for the size of the lot. If you have 2 or more dwelling units on the lot, then the maximum lot coverage calculation increases to 50% of the lot area. Lot coverage is pretty easy to calculate, but the exceptions to the rule do get tricky. For example, decks lower than 36”, solar panels, fences, and the first 36” of roof overhangs do not count against lot coverage, and there are some additional nuances to what counts and what does not.

FLOOR AREA RATIO

Floor Area Ratio (known as FAR) is the last topic we will discuss here. This is a measure of the usable floor space inside a building. So, if you have a 1000sf first floor and 1000sf second floor, then you have 2000sf of floor area used up…sort of. The stair doesn’t count twice, some basements don’t count, certain porches don’t count, and there’s also other exceptions that don’t count against you. In the NR zoning classification, there is a sliding scale for the amount of floor area you are allowed to have, and it is based on the number of dwelling units the property has. The calculation is a ratio between the number of dwelling units and the size of the property. With less than 1 unit per 4000sf of lot area, you are allowed a floor area ratio of 60% of the lot size. For example, if you have 1 house on a 3000sf lot, 60% of 3000sf is 1800sf of maximum floor area allowed, BUT the minimum allowed for any lot is always 2500sf (even if the calculation is less). Also, if you are in an RSL zone, the calculation is 75% of the lot area. If your NR lot is slightly more dense and has between 1 unit per 4000sf and 1 unit per 2201sf, then the FAR increases to 80% of the lot area. If your NR lot is even more dense and has between 1 unit per 2200sf and 1 unit per 1601sf, then the FAR increases to 100% of the lot area. Finally, if your lot is denser than 1 unit per 1600sf, the your FAR increases to 120% of the lot area. For example, if you have 4 units on a 5000sf lot, that ratio is 1 unit per 1250sf, so you could use the FAR of 120%. That means your 5000sf lot can have a maximum of 6000sf of floor area. If you have an alley, you do not get to factor half of the alley into your calculation like you would for the lot coverage calculation discussed earlier. This is my current understanding of this new code that was introduced in 2025.

CONCLUSION

I hope this post was informative and gives you a basic understanding of the NR (SF) zoning classification in Seattle to help you determine approximately what you’re allowed to do with your property. I recommend that you do not discuss specifics of your project with the building department unless you first run it by an architect that is VERY experienced in the zoning classification in your area since you may “shoot yourself in the foot” by saying the wrong thing and get locked into adverse interpretations. We are here to help you figure out the specifics since the rules are tricky and there’s a lot of exceptions to the rule that can be used in your favor. As a disclaimer, the topics covered here are generalizations that could easily get misinterpreted, and you should consult with an expert architect for specific interpretations.

Chimneys - Do You Need One? / August 1, 2025 by Josh Brincko

Do I need my chimney?

Probably not.

When we design remodels and additions, we commonly deal with the removal of chimneys. Most people think they are structural, but this is not true. Just because it’s made of sturdy brick doesn’t mean it’s structural. In fact, brick is one of the least structural materials there is. When there’s an earthquake, the joints between the bricks crumble, and the brick facades and chimneys tend to fall apart (sorry 3rd little pig). The house is not held together by the chimney. In fact, the structure has a hole through the floor(s) and roof, so the chimney can punch through it. If you remove the chimney, the house is just fine (structurally). It is actually a requirement to remove chimneys or to install steel braces onto them in some seismic-prone areas.

So what is a chimney for? Traditionally, they were used to enable a fireplace, furnace, or hot water system to ventilate to the exterior, and brick is a material that doesn’t burn. It also doesn’t get hot enough to cause the other materials around it to burn. With current construction practices, we don’t need chimneys for this purpose anymore. Some hot water systems use a small plastic pipe for ventilation. Almost all furnaces and gas fireplace appliance inserts use a metal pipe for ventilation. It’s actually a double metal pipe since the inner layer gets hot, but the outer layer stays relatively cool. It’s possible to re-use an old chimney for new vent pipes, and this is really the only valid reason to keep an old chimney. It is a straight path from the basement to the roof that is ready-to-go for retrofitting a nice new plastic or metal vent pipe into. Sometimes it’s still just easier to remove the chimney though.

As you can see, you don’t need a big, bulky, brick chimney for anything in a newer house. The plastic and metal vent pipes are much smaller, take up much less space, and can be installed within ceilings, walls, and floors. Plastic and metal vent pipes can make turns within these concealed spaces unlike their brick counterparts. When removing an unnecessary chimney, you will be left with a lot of usable space that can be incorporated into the rest of your floor plan that really opens up a lot of beneficial options for room layouts.

Is it hard to remove a chimney? Not really. With a sledge hammer and crowbar, you can dismantle a chimney brick by brick. The hard part is the labor to transport all those bricks outside, into a truck, and to a dump or salvage yard. Those bricks are most useful for landscaping projects but not much else. Another challenge with chimney removal is the patching that needs to happen in the floors, ceilings, and roof. This usually involves tying in plywood to marry up with the existing floor or roof surface. Then you need to cover that patchwork with matching flooring, drywall, or roof shingles. This can be a challenge to make things match, so it’s not uncommon that chimney removal results in new flooring or ceiling in an entire room or new shingles on an entire roof. Usually those items would have been part of the original project anyway, so they are commonly a moot point.

If you’d like to evaluate removing your chimney for a future remodel or addition, feel free to reach out, and we can give you an analysis on how things may pan out.

Interior Design or Decoration / July 1, 2025 by Josh Brincko

What in this image is “design”, and what is “decoration”?

What’s the difference between interior design and interior decoration? This post will dive into that distinction.

Design, at its core, is to define a problem and create a solution while satisfying all the goals. This usually involves many requirements such as codes, budgets, construction techniques, functionality, durability, and aesthetics. Decoration involves mainly just the aesthetics. Decoration is to put a “coating” or a “surface” on something that has already been designed.

Examples of decoration include paint, wallpaper, picture frames, knick knacks on shelves, furniture, and selecting fabrics for things like pillows and bedding. With the exception of paint, most decoration is not permanently attached to the building. It is optional for the functionality of the building.

Examples of interior design include specifying flooring, toilets, sinks, faucets, lights, designing cabinets, and even limited wall placement when it’s not structurally required. Most interior design elements are permanently attached to the building. These things are also commonly controlled by building codes and must adhere to construction protocols. An interior designer needs to coordinate the efforts of a builder to ensure the items get built as required whereas an interior decorator will commonly install the pillows and bedding and such on their own.

Both professions have their own place, but there can be some overlap between them. Often, interior designers don’t like to be called decorators because they do so much more than just decorating, but they do often still decorate (but not always). Interior designers (should) have training and experience in construction and the drafting of plans since their efforts result in construction. They commonly work as one part of a design team alongside an architect and other engineers. Interior decorators do not need that level of experience, and they often work after the construction process and do not always integrate with it.

An interior designer commonly has some of the training that an architect has such as: drafting construction drawings, building code analysis, construction administration, understanding of construction materials/practices, and an understanding of complex spatial and three-dimensional topics. An architect uses those same skills in a broader context that expands into land use and zoning, property design, full building design, facade design, weatherproof design, thermal design, and also knows how to integrate the expertise of engineers for mechanical, electrical, plumbing, structural, geotechnical, and civil systems. An architect is a professional that is all-encompassing, and is capable of successfully doing the work an interior design and decorator can do - but sometimes prefers to hire them to take on those portions of the work.

Interior designers and decorators also commonly sell the items they specify for their projects, and they will earn a commission for those items. Many designers and decorators earn a decent living “repping” certain products and pushing them on their projects. Architects are not allowed to profit from the items they specify on their projects. Architects have a fiduciary duty to the client to design the best thing for the situation instead of suggesting things that may benefit the architect.

When we design a house, we generally start by figuring out what the zoning allows us to do for setbacks and the maximum height and size. Once we know that, then we usually start designing “from the inside out.” It is not uncommon for us to start designing a house by first drawing a bed, and a night stand, and space to walk around the bed, and then eventually walls for privacy, and windows facing a view. The interior design informs the exterior (and vice versa). It is impossible to design just the outside of a building since the interior and exterior closely relate to each other. We consider the cabinet layout, trim around doors and windows, and even custom built-ins while we are also designing roofs, walls, porches, and driveways. They all tie together.

This makes an architect the ideal person to really take on an integrated design approach since that’s the only party privy to everything on a project. It is common that interior designers will work on projects without really understanding the big picture. They sometimes just slap some cabinets on a wall without knowing that there may be some beams, columns, vents, or even windows that affect that wall. We have actually seen a well-respected interior designer put cabinetry over a wall and covered up a window that faced Mt. Rainier! They didn’t take the time to understand that the room they were “designing” had a beautiful view of a mountain. In their presentation to the client, they explained how great the cabinets were. We had to inform them that they blocked a window, they blocked a view of a mountain, and they even deleted the window that aligned with other windows on the facade. With that window missing, the facade made no sense.

For this reason, we prefer to keep the design of the whole project in our court. There’s nothing special an interior designer can do that an architect can’t. The skills are transferable from an interior designer to an architect (but not from an architect to an interior designer since the architect’s role is so much more robust). The process for an architect to design an interior is no different from designing an exterior - except that it doesn’t need to withstand weather or comply with zoning codes … so it’s easier.

An interior designer can be a great asset when they are willing to take on the decorating aspects since those are really not integrated into the construction process. Interior designers are also helpful if they can play a support role for the architect. What does that mean? Basically, an architect draws the interior views of a wall, and all of those items need to be “specified” such as baseboards, trims, towel bars, toilet, sink, faucet, countertop, etc. An architect will inherently draw those things, so they function well, but an interior designer can be helpful by organizing the product numbers and documentation for all of those materials. A builder needs to buy and install all those products, so someone needs to put all of those product numbers into the plans. An architect can do that work, or an interior designer can take it on.

If there’s some shared responsibility there, it’s important for it to be clearly defined. It doesn’t make sense for an architect to just design the outside and not the inside. It’s not really possible either (as described earlier). The interior designer would have to learn all of the decisions that the architect already made throughout the design process that may have an impact on the interior. It’s not practical to do that. It is more practical for the architect to assign specific tasks to an interior designer, so the expectation from the architect can be clearly prescribed.

For example, and architect can ask an interior designer to go through the interior drawings, and add product numbers for all flooring, plumbing fixtures, and appliances, and check to ensure there are no clearance issues based on the manufacturers’ requirements and also code requirements. With that directive, the interior designer can report back to the architect with all of the products that will fit within the required parameters. There will be some iterations since not everything will work or fit the first try, but the architect and interior designer can work together to come up with a solution.

We have successfully integrated this strategy on many projects although it is easier and more efficient for the architect to just take on all that work. It’s a challenge to deal with the scheduling, protocols, billing, preferences, and nuances of different companies, so if one company can easily do it all, that makes the most sense. There have been some great interior designers who have been proactive at supporting the entire process, and implementing their expertise successfully into the work that the architect oversees.

The River Run, a True Story by Josh / June 2, 2025 by Josh Brincko

“The River Run: A True Story of a Drowning Fly Fisherman” is the latest book written by Josh Brincko outside of the context of architecture. It is the second text that focuses on personal experiences in survival situations.

Buy "The River Run" on Amazon

In the heart of Pennsylvania’s untamed nature, amidst the roar of a relentless river, a day of serene fly fishing quickly spirals into a harrowing fight for survival. "The River Run" plunges you into the gripping true story of a group of friends whose tranquil adventure turns into a desperate race against time. When a fellow fisherman is swept away by the river's ferocious current, their camaraderie and courage are put to the ultimate test. This dramatic account captures the raw power of nature, the fragility of life, and the extraordinary resilience of the human spirit. Prepare to be riveted by a tale of heroism, where the bounds of friendship and bravery are pushed to their very limits, and where every second counts in the battle between life and death. You will garner a new respect for rivers after experiencing this story.

An Architect's Insights - On Construction / May 1, 2025 by Josh Brincko

Josh has recently compiled his insights on design through his perspective as an architect into a book: “An Architect’s Insights - On Construction: A Lifetime of Wisdom in Design, Business, and Construction”. These are the stories that you have enjoyed hearing over the years all compiled into a written format for your desk, lap, and bookshelf.

Buy “Insights - On Construction" on Amazon

Within these pages, you'll discover a wealth of wisdom distilled from years of navigating the complexities of the industry from the voice of a seasoned architect with a humorous, yet don't F with me sort of tone. From the intricacies of unique construction methods to the nuances of communicating effectively with builders, each chapter is a masterclass in itself. With candid anecdotes and practical advice, the author shares insights that can only be gained through a lifetime of hands-on experience.

Whether you're an aspiring architect, seasoned business owner, or ambitious builder, "An Architect's Insights - On Construction" is your indispensable guide to achieving excellence in your craft. Learn how to streamline your processes, cultivate creativity, and overcome common challenges with ease. Delve into the art of understanding construction issues, getting the build team to be a team, and implementing lessons learned for successful projects from trials and tribulations of an experienced architect. This volume will help prime you for success as it guides you to the shortcuts in the world of construction administration.

Embrace the wisdom of a lifetime and embark on a transformative journey through architectural excellence. Let "An Architect's Insights - On Construction" be your companion as you navigate the intricate landscape of construction as experienced by an architect, and watch as your projects flourish like never before.

An Architect's Insights - On Business / April 1, 2025 by Josh Brincko

Josh has recently compiled his insights on design through his perspective as an architect into a book: “An Architect’s Insights - On Business: A Lifetime of Wisdom in Design, Business, and Construction”. These are the stories that you have enjoyed hearing over the years all compiled into a written format for your desk, lap, and bookshelf.

Buy "Insights - On Business” on Amazon

Unlock the secrets to success in architecture, business, and construction with the volumes from "An Architect's Insights" series, a compelling journey through the experiences of a seasoned architect and business owner. Drawing from a rich array of lifetime encounters, this book is a treasure trove of invaluable knowledge, offering a fresh and unique perspective on the multifaceted world of running a business in the field of architecture.

Within these pages, you'll discover a wealth of wisdom distilled from years of navigating the complexities of the industry from the voice of a seasoned architect with a humorous, yet don't F with me sort of tone. From the intricacies of educating clients to the nuances of effective strategies tips to becoming a better architect, each chapter is a masterclass in itself. With candid anecdotes and practical advice, the author shares insights that can only be gained through a lifetime of hands-on experience.

Whether you're an aspiring architect, seasoned business owner, or ambitious builder, "An Architect's Insights - On Business" is your indispensable guide to achieving excellence in your craft. Learn how to streamline your processes, cultivate creativity, and overcome common challenges with ease. Delve into the art of managing clients, harnessing the power of negotiation, and implementing lessons learned for running a successful design firm from trials and tribulations of an experienced architect. This volume will help prime you for success as it guides you to the shortcuts in the world of being a business person and not just an architect.

Embrace the wisdom of a lifetime and embark on a transformative journey through architectural excellence. Let "An Architect's Insights - On Business" be your companion as you navigate the intricate landscape of practicing architecture, and watch as your career flourishes like never before.

An Architect's Insights - On Design / March 3, 2025 by Josh Brincko

Josh has recently compiled his insights on design through his perspective as an architect into a book: “An Architect’s Insights - On Design: A Lifetime of Wisdom in Design, Business, and Construction”. These are the stories that you have enjoyed hearing over the years all compiled into a written format for your desk, lap, and bookshelf.

Buy “Insights - On Design” on Amazon

Within these pages, you'll discover a wealth of wisdom distilled from years of navigating the complexities of the industry from the voice of a seasoned architect with a humorous, yet don't F with me sort of tone. From the intricacies of obtaining permits to the nuances of effective design strategies, each chapter is a masterclass in itself. With candid anecdotes and practical advice, the author shares insights that can only be gained through a lifetime of hands-on experience.

Whether you're an aspiring architect, seasoned business owner, or ambitious builder, "An Architect's Insights - On Design" is your indispensable guide to achieving excellence in your craft. Learn how to streamline your processes, cultivate creativity, and overcome common challenges with ease. Delve into the art of navigating building departments, harnessing the power of innovation, and implementing lessons learned for successful design solutions from trials and tribulations of an experienced architect. This volume will help prime you for success as it guides you to the shortcuts in the world of design and permitting.

Embrace the wisdom of a lifetime and embark on a transformative journey through architectural excellence. Let "An Architect's Insights - On Design" be your companion as you navigate the intricate landscape of design and permitting, and watch as your ideas flourish like never before.

Seattle Modern Architect & Artisan